Entering the land of our dreams India, the amazing experience at the Golden Temple where they serve free food 24 hours a day and staying at a Sikh temple



The Golden Temple


In the morning the manager of the hospital takes us with an ambulance to the border with India. Before we left the guy with the rickshaw brought us a bag full of halva-cigars (something like deep fried batters with semolina halva) and then accompanied us to the border to help us cross it. Our 45 day stay in Pakistan expired yesterday but nobody seemed to care and they let us in freely, though we had to wait for an hour because the electricity had stopped and the computers weren’t working. We had to pass hundreds of checks at the Indian border because they were very strict with the people who come from Pakistan.

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Pastor for a day at Lahore, “the collision” of two armies at the border and saying good-bye to great Pakistan – you will stay in our hearts forever!


The gate of the mosque in Lahore


All the morning we read the Bible, watch some Christian channel on TV and do other stuff related to religion. At noon we get on a bike (5 adults and a baby!) and we go downtown. The traffic is very heavy and maybe because all of the stress we stop to feel the heat so acutely. We visited first the fort in Lahore – it has gigantic walls and doors. Then we went to the Badshahi Mosque which was built during 16 century and is one of the most impressive mosques we have ever seen.

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Regal life in Islamabad, then meeting Patras John in Lahore: the priest who chased a daemon out of a possessed woman



At the house of the priest Patras John (the guy behind Mr. Shushtari)


This is the second time in three weeks when we have access to hot water. We can wash our clothes. We don’t need to sleep with our jackets because it is warm. For dinner we have thousands of fruits, Nutella, mango jam and many other things. On top of all this our host lives right next to the embassy and lends us his driver.

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Last moments in Karakorum region and the most extreme and exhausting 30-hour bus ride ever


On the Road


Today is our last day in the mountains. Tomorrow we start the 30-hour journey to the capital of Pakistan. I don’t want to even fathom how we will survive traveling on the mega broken roads and the hair-pin bends. After that we plan to go to Lahore – one of the 3 most important cities of Pakistan. It is situated near the border with India.

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Walking around the picturesque Karimabad, traveling with the car-roller-coaster in the most dangerous region of Pakistan, meeting the Noorbakshi elders


View from Eagle’s Nest


We spend the next few days in Karimabad. First we visit the fort Baltit. The place is a parаdise for Korean and Japanese people – there are signs in Korean everywhere. There are many shops in the street. They sell mainly carpets, precious stones, dried fruits and traditional clothes.

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Never ending glaciers and the terrific suspension bridge as well as hitchhiking a tractor and the Pakistani who told us magical stories about ancient caravans


Passu glacier


Here comes the new day – full of adventures. We wake up at 6 in the morning and we start sightseeing. There are several old houses in the village (one of them was the summer palace of the Mir of Hunza – this is the title of the local rulers) and a museum, as well as an old fort that is 200 years old. We climb above the village and the sights are amazing.

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Entering the alien looking Hunza valley and how to transport one’s jeep by a motor boat


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Peaks in Hunza Valley


Apparently we led too luxurious and easy life the past few days and to counterbalance today was full of hardships. As soon as we prepared to leave the hotel the owner said we owe him 500 Rupees (5$) for the tent, but we refused to pay him. Later the hitchhiking was slow but after waiting for a while a guy took us to Battagram (around 20 km.), he treated us to tea and cookies at his office and it was hard to explain to him that we want to continue hitchhiking.

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Breathtaking glaciers and peaks and taking a walk to the lake Saif-ul Maluk wearing sandals

0. Lednik po putq kum Naran - kervana e blokiran ot lednici i ne moje da premine Babussar Pass

The caravan is blocked by a glacier on the way to Naran


We start hitchhiking towards the mountains. The driver of Shah and Fatima leaves us at the end of the town and a car stops right away. For me Pakistan is on the top of the list of all the countries, I have been up to now, regarding the hitchhiking. Almost everyone stops, most of the drivers speak English and the new and luxurious cars stop the most.

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